In Ela's Backroom

You gotta hand it to the British Library, how any institution can juxapose some of the great writers in the history of the world and get away with it......

Case in point: it's a rainy Saturday morning and a perfect time to visit a British institution which contains some "Box Office Attractions" like a Magna Carta, Gutenberrg Bible, drawings by Michelangelo and the handwritten lyrics of Paul McCartney's "Yesterday"....all in the same room! And it works. First draft handwritten lyrics on the back of envelopes and birthday cards by Lennon and McCartney seem a natural fit for the Magna Carta across the room.

Speaking of such: this is the second Magna Carta I've seen this week. Seems there were 13 signed and but four known to still exist. I saw one up in the Lincoln Cathedral the other day and now one in the British Library.

This whole Magna Carta thiing came about because King John was fighting with his Barons, and the Pope and the military. His military campaign in France was not going well, so he doubled-down and levied more taxes and for some reason the Barons revolted. Here is how he tried to solve that problem: "He handled the rebels by disregarding justice, taking hostages and imposing ruthless punishments." It's probably the first time in history that a King dealt with injustice by handing out more injustice. The Barons still were no buying it and forced King John to sign a Magna Carta full of rights for men (but not women and certainly not serfs and slaves).

A surviving partial building from the 1500's down by Southwark Cathedral

At the same time the King was in a fight with the Pope in Rome concerning the appointment of a new Archbishop of Canterbury. So the King comes up with a brilliant Idea. First he accepts the Pope's appointment for the Archbishop of Canterbury. The Pope and he become BFF's and then King John tells the Pope to "null and void" the Magna Carta which the Pope does. The Barons are not pleased and issue a Magna Carta Revised 2.0 edition which to this day rules the land (unless you are a woman or serf or slave but otherwise it's a great document if you fit into the narrow category to whom it's addressed), And if that is not enough, the document is kept in the County of Wiltshire by a woman named Ela. You couldn't make this stuff up.

Across the room are drawings by Michelangelo and Albrecht Durer, writings by Shakespeare and Chaucer, sacred texts of Judaism, Hinduism, Buddhism and Christianity, the oldest known English document written in 678 AD, a land contract, a Gutenberg Bible, Jane Austen books in her handwriting and Beatles lyrics in the handwriting of John and Paul. Western Civilization is complete.

Onward to the British Museum.

I love this place and so does half of London on this rainy June Saturday but I make for the Medieval Section to see some of the relics of the era in which I have been living the past week. It does not disappoint, nor does the section on African art and folklore, another area which fascinates me.

The main hall was absolutely packed with people who were trying to sit and rest and eat their sandwiches. It looked like an airport waiting room in blizzard when all the flights have been delayed for two days. But we made a wrong turn on the way to the Africa section and discoverd an entire empty floor of comfortable chairs, air conditioning, restrooms and nobody. Absolutely nobody. We lounged, refreshed and headed out into the daylight now that the rain had ceased.

The great Architect of the 17th Century was Christopher Wren who designed St. Paul's and dozens of other churches after the disastrous fire of London in 1666. I have a list of some remaining churches by him and we went in search of them, but most were closed on a Saturday by 3 pm, except St. Mary Le Bow in the Cockney area of London.

Stunning. But I doubt this bears little resemblence to the original by Wren and even then Wren's design for St Mary was the third redesign over the centuries and more came after him. WWII saw the chuch and neighborhood bombed by Hitler.  A decade later or more, we get this.

These are some of the best modern stained glass windows that I have seen. We will return to the neighborhood later in the week to see more Christopher Wren masterpieces. But now it is nearly time for 5 pm Evensong (Evening Prayers) at St. Paul's down the street. 

Christopher Wren outdid himself and nearly everyone else with this masterpiece. It is far and away more impressive than Westminster Abbey and might even be a rival to St. Peter's in Rome for eye popping splendor. 

As for Evensong. A male choir (have yet to see or hear females or girls in Anglican choirs though women are fully a part of the clergy) begins from the central part of the nave beneath the dome behind us. Then the procession begins to the Choir. Songs, Psalms. Bowing. Slow walking preceded by great pomp and circumstance. There must be a thousand in attendance, but a small slice of the tourists who were there earlier. Frankly, most of those in attendance are tourists, but it is a wonderful opportunity for Christendom to show what solemn and uplifiting worship can do for the soul.

Peace, Bob

Look! It Must be Something Important.

I have now been to the Cotswolds. That area outside of Gloucester, filled with sheep and pastoral (and buccolic) views of rolling hills. But the stunning differences in landscapes appears when one boards the train at the quiet station in Gloucester and a few hours later finds oneself in London Paddington Station.

A quick trip through the Underground and we find our hotel in the general area of Kings Cross and St. Pancras.

Makaila had spent but a day here last week before the train journey (Laura and I have been here many times before) and we insisted that she had to go to the epicenter of the tourist area so we went directly to Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. You can't get any more London/British than that.

I suppose it there is but one Cathedral to see, Westminster Abbey is the one. Perhaps St. Paul's. But we have been spoiled. This past week we've been to eight others and it is difficult to now compare. Yes, Westminster has statue upon statue and when you are walking around inside the cathedral, you are walking on the grave sites or plaques to commemnorate great men and women, many of whom this Ohio boy actually knows.

But the crowds! It was Friday afternoon and the que still had people whom were being let in, in small groups. In Lincoln the other day, the cathedral which is every bit the same size as Westminster, there were probably only 50 people in the entire cathedral in the afternoon. When it came time for Evensong the church officials went around the cathedral and recruited people to come. I imagine maybe a couple hundred a day visit unless a tour bus hits town. York Cathedral is the same size as Westminster too. Which begs the question: "why would the small cities of Lincoln and York get mega-sized cathedrals like Westminster Abbey in London?" And I guess the answer is because then they were all built around 1100 AD....those three towns were about the same size. London was not the world class sized city it is today. I would highly recommend a quick trip up to Lincoln or York when in London in order to check out these three amazing structures for yourself.

We deicded that we wanted to experience Evensong at 5 pm. And that que began at the other door in a half hour, so we went down the street to see the Queens Horse Guard (or some such designation) This regiment troops down the Mall for the Changing of the Guard each day and it begins here. But we read that 4 pm there was some sort of mini-changing of the guard at the stables. 

Horses and Redcoats.

Londoners and tourists can't get enough of it all. Just down the street was #10 Downing Street and hundreds of people were behind baracades looking down the steet at THE Door. Laura asked what the crowd was about and a toursit replied, "It's #10 Downing Street!"

"But you can't see anything but barriers and cops." she said to no one.

And indeep you could not, but that is not the point, this is London and SOMETHING is supposed to be happening around every turn, when in reality not much but traffic and tourists. All you need for excitement and a gathering of tourists is to have a half dozen police congregate in one place...even if for donuts....and a crowd of photo snapping tourists instantly materialize. Houses of Parliament...Big Ben, The Thames.....so what....but LOOK....police! It must be something important!

Still, the Horse Guard or whatever put on a good show.

Though to be honest, I kept expecting them to break into a "Gilbert and Sullivan" chorus.

But, back to Westminster for 5 pm Evensong. The que is forming at 4:15, one tourist is arguing with the officiails behind the fence in the courtyard. But everybody else lines up and at 4:30 we are let in. We enter and are hearded to a spot inside then at 4:45 we are seated. I imagine a couple hundred are present. Probably a handfull are Anglican and the rest tourists who want to see the Cathedral for free and experience the pagentry of an Evensong service in the great Westminster Abbey.

The choir of boys and men do not disappointed when it comes to responses in the liturgy. 

Evensong consists of Scriptures, hymns, the choir singing responses and a bit of dignified walking and being led by a man (in Lincoln, a woman) who carries this staff and accompanies the reader to the podium. Along the way they bow to the altar. It's 45 minutes of ritual that fascinates people and it's done with dignity and grace.

Strange to think about our informal worship services and yet ours in which I participate look like high church compared with modern American auditorium worship set like a Nashville concert. We still have robed clergy and robed Acolytes who light the candles and process down the aisle.

Twenty years ago, there was the notion in Church Growth seminars that if you did not convert to big screen jumbo-tron screens and install a Starbucks in the narthex and instist that your minisiter be called Rev. Bobby or Rev. Debbie....then you were doomed. Soon to wash up on the beach of dead churches. 

But, I don't hear that anymore. People like ceremony if only for the order and dignity it provides in an increasingly casual world. The churches with Rev. Jimmy will continue to survive and thrive and those with less casual ways of referencing the clergy will also thrive. In short, ministries and churches will survive not based on their worship style but on whether the church is being ministered to propberly by its clegry and lay leadership.

 

The Entrance for Evensong

I truly enjoyed Evensong for the worship that it is. Many came for the tourist experience but I have to believe that heartfelt worship with some throwbacks to other centuries does still have its place in modern life and worship. But I am seriously going to check out adding that "guy with the staff" who leads the readers to the podium in quiet dignity. And I suppose there is a proper name for such a man or woman but staying true to my Puritan ancestors who bolted from the Anglican Church over such pomp and circumstance, I will keep this secret wish under my hat.

And a quick trip to Buckingham Palace. Once again, thousands milling around waiting for something to happen, and nothing does. But, it's fun just to be there all the same.

Peace,  Bob

If it's 11:47, This Must be Wales

Like all of our mornings, we get up and ready for the day but go out and tke a walk in the city and watch it wake up. This morning was sunny and bright and when we arrived it was rainy and dark, so we got to see a whole new side of Hereford.

This place is quite beautiful and all the school kids walking all over town lend it charm and the sheep dotting the hills around town give it a buccolic atmosphere.

The cathedral towers over it all.

But, time to go. The train station is near by and we walk and hop on the correct train for the second day in a row. The countryside is indeed full of sheep and the green hills have white dots of sheep all over them. After a short while I note that the train stations have names that seem like "Gwynyeraggeyater" or like "Pytoyer-eyy-mayggeryut" and yet the station names in English are like "Whidley"...and it occurs to me that we are in Wales.

From what I can tell, if you get down around Hereford and Gloucester and take the train it is difficult to NOT loop into Wales for a few stops...and we do. It seems like a fine little country. It was not on my bucket list but I've made a mental note that it would be fun to take the train all through it. It's got hills and seashores. No doubt, lots of sheep. And they have cornered the market on the use of the letters "y" and "g" in the spelling of every word in Welsh.

Gloucester

My daughters are always finiding a Tea Room in order to experience local culture and it is quite nice. Today we needed a breather between the train ride and trying to read Welsh Train Depot signs and ended up here.

And just through the stone wall to my right was this.

The Gloucester Cathedral was on the "Hereford" plan, that is, it looked simialr to the Hereford Cathedral which we saw yesterday and in the morning. This too was a large cathedral but definitely not the Mega-Size cathedrals of Lincoln and York.

Gloucester Cathedral was pretty quiet. Not a lot of tourists and the upkeep on the place seemed daunting. 6000 British Pounds a day upkeep which I am calling $10,000, in American dollars.  

And yet...

 King Edward the II was buried here,  a ceremonial staff owned by the cathedral was used and proundly displayed because it was used in the procession of the Coronatination of Queen Elizabeth in 1953.

I even found my namesake: Robert, Duke of Normandy, alas his fate was not so heroic, though he did get a nice burial effigy and plaque in the cathedral.

Robert Duke of Normandy. I imagine that Robert was the only titled brother who was ever swindled or beheaded or imprisoned because of that title. I can't imagine there was much competition or jealousy over the right to inherit a Kingdon.

Besides relics of body parts which cathedrals used as Pilgrimage-draws....and are my favorites, my next favorite thing to see in cathedrals are the cloisters. They are the best and frankly, in my book, Gloucester Cloisters are the best of the best.

The ceiling detail is absolutely stunning. Words cannot describe.

But, here is what one guide book said: "The 14th-century cloisters are a major highlight of Gloucester Cathedral. The fan-vaulted roof is the finest in Europe, and the cloisters enclose a peaceful garden. This was used in the filming of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone for some Hogwarts School scenes."

I was in the gardens too. I met a homeless guy who showed me the bird nesting in the tree above his head, offered me a beer, said that he was waiting to get into some shelter on the other side of town, and then suddenly his cell phone rang and he dismissed me with, 

"Sorry Gov-ner, I have to take this call!"

And he ambled over to his bench under the birds nest and conducted his business.

So besies impressing me, Robert (named after the distinguished and rightful heir to the Throne, though having been done in by his ne'er-do-well brother King Henry.) these cloisters impressed the Harry Potter people too and I can certainly see why. I must view the films to see how these cloisters were used.

Part of the journey is making your own discovery of something that is an "Ah-Ha! Moment" even if hundreds or thousands have discovered it before you. But experiencing it for yourself is the gift of the journey.

Peace,  Bob

 

Across the River Wye

Some folks have been asking about the food. I admit, that has not been my focus. I'm not a foodie. If it's there and doesn't have raw onions, I'll pretty much eat it and when it comes to dinner, I let my daughters decide.

Besides, the food of the world is everywhere. Last year I ate at a Mexican restaurant after visiting a sacred temple in Thailand and I had Domino's Pizza in India. Of course every British town has its McDonalds and KFC and Starbucks. This town of Hereford has more Fish & Chips shops per square mile than anyplace on earth, so last night we had Mediterranean.

English Breakfasts are pretty standard and hearty. Bacon and eggs! The staff is always "popping into the back for bacon" for us. Their bacon, we'd call Canadian bacon, I suppose. The salt content rivals that of Great Salt Lake. It's all good. We also always are offered Baked Beans. For some reason, I can't look a plate of baked beans in the eye until after 12:45,,,so I can't comment on its flavor. I'm not certain if I am allowed to mention the names of "Bangers and Mash" and "Fish and Finger Pie" in a blog which children might read. But the British are always ordering them or asking us to order them, though I suspect its a joke....like Scouts telling novices they are going "Snipe Hunting" or folks in Montana telling City Slickers about "Jackalopes."

"SIr, would you like a nice order of Banger & Mash with that Finger Pie??"

(Muffled laughter from the kitichen over the Americans who are about to order Bangers and Mash.)

The first beer I was offered in London was a Bud Lite.

Here in Hereford I told the bartender to give me a good British Lager on tap.

"Oh sir, I am sorry...we only serve German beer on tap!"

I am trying to bolster the British Beer Industry but they seem to be controlled by foreign companies. But in short...I enjoy the B & B food and the ease of ordering anything in about any city and town. Anthony Bourdaine I am not.

If Hollywood or the British equivalent were to make a movie about a kindly about-to-retire-beloved English Prep School Professor and his quiet English Prep School.....this is where they would film.

Even in the rain, this town has charm for four towns. We walked around in the rain and enjoyed it for an hour or more. Every turn was another charming picture.

But, the Cathedral brought us here. The original church was dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin in 687 AD but there was a wooden structure before that. Like nearly all of these Cathedrals, they were built in phases and so for a few hundred years they are say, Norman in architecture but then they build on and use, say, Gothic. Those with a trained eye can spot it all. I'd put it this way: if the Cathedral is 100% complete today...maybe 50% was Norman and 50% Gothic and a few other % is modern, adding a modern toilet and administrative offices or display section. Don't hold me to those percentages for Hereford Cathedral, but Cathedrals in general are all about additions over the centuries.

I doubt if any started in say, the 9th Century and they had a set plan for its completion. It's great fun to read of all the additions and disasters which make up a Cathedrals history.

Hereford Cathedral

I am no expert but I can tell when Cathedrals are beyond belief in size and that was York and Liverpool's Cathedrals earlier in the week. Both of those felt like you had entered a dream in which you are but a tiny figure in a gargantuan world. Hereford is a very big cathedral, make no mistake about it...just look at the nave above. But it is somewhat smaller than the other two (and Canterbury). I wouldn't want to be in charge of its Buildings and Grounds Committee though, it takes about $7000 per day to operate. 

Look at the Norman arches in the photos above (I hope I have labeled that correctly) you will note that they do not soar to the fatherst reaches of the ceiling, as do those in Lincoln and York. But, I would vote Hereford "Best Cathedral Flooring." A real treat for the eye.

But it is in the Nave, Choir, Chapel symmetry of all cathedrals with dozens of smaller chapels along the sides dedicated to saints and benefactors. This also had more Dead Knights per square foot compared to other Cathedrals. 

I love this place, the lighting is dramatic and a benefactor has paid for installation of an entire electrical upgrade so the Electrical Union Hall is quite pleased and so is the Cathedral.

This cathedral houses the famous Mapa Mundi ... which is from the 13th Century and is a representation of the most informed men in England at the time it was created and yet it was "based partly on hearsay, rumours and the exaggerations of drunken seafarers." And they have the Chained Library (books in chains...which rather sounds like a Vincent Price horror film). For some reason, one could not photograph the chained library books. I mean, who is going to steal them...they are  chained to the wall! Nobody reads books anymore any way...especially Latin. But the Mapa Mundi and Library are great treasures and beautifully displayed, though like "jackalopes" you'll just have to take my word for it.

We have gone for over 24 hours without boarding the wrong train and ending up on an Express Train to London, so we are feeling quite please with ourselves. But, not quite confident enough to order Baked Beans for breakfast.

Peace, Bob

Hearts Torn in Every Way

The old gentleman kindly informed us that we were  in the que for the 10 minute ferry across the Mersey River and that the 50 minute ferry would give us a great view of the whole city.

I told him "Thanks, but we're on a mission here to ferry across the Mersey only."

He told us, "When I was a kid, it cost 2 Tuppance to cross the Mersey."

"What do you remember about WWII" I asked, "You were too young to serve I am sure."

"They were bombing everything and I was a younster and Mum sent me to safety in Wales but she missed me and I returned." He replied. "We went to bomb shelters all the time. Me Dad was in the First War. He was a runner."

"From what I've read about the Great War, that was a pretty wise thing to do," I responded.

"No, he delivered messages by running them to units at the front."

"That sounds dangerous" I said.

"It was!'

"Did he survive the war?" I asked, probing world history and family matters.

"Wouldn't be here if he hadn't" he said with no sense of irony.

Liverpool and the Mersey River. It's been in my brain for 50 years since the Pacemakers sang about it. For some reason I am semi-obsessed with visiting the geographic sites of popular songs.

My quest this morning before we leave Liverpool is to take a ferry across the Mersey River. 

 It's quite simple to do and any time I can get on water for a look at the city or countryside, I am there.

I'll leave the psychologists to analyze what this reveals about me personally.

I just know I enjoy the journey and have to do it.

(Thanks! Gerry Marsden!)

Peace Bob

It's in My Ears and in My Eyes

The day began simply enough with a charming walk along the river in York. There was light rain but it was warm and besides American students jogging in the rain and locals hurrying to work along the walkways, it was a remarkedly unremarkable day.

Our plan was to walk the river, then walk the Shambles which is loaded with shops and tea & coffee places. Most of the retail was still closed so we pretty much had the place to ourselves.

There was a final walk along the river and a cab to the train station where we had plenty of time to catch the train to Liverpool. It left from Platform #3 at 11:15. We cued up. We waited. And at 11:06 the train arrived on platform three and we hopped on with our bags. Secured them and headed for our seats...which were occupied.

But, I learned one thing or two......

This country is either smaller than I realized or the trains of England are faster than I realized. 
I think it's a combination of both.

What happened next is actually, totally England's fault and it's because they run their trains on time. What kind of way is that to run a railroad? In America we figure if we come within a three hour block of time....we're good. 

England schedules trains to different cities on the same track but at different times. It's like they know what they're doing when it comes to this train stuff. Plus, when they schedule trains tightly on the same track, they assume that folks will know what train they are getting on before they board. 

As for us...we assume that an overhead announcement or signage would announce what train it was that was entering the station. But we were wrong, hence people were in our seats because this was the Non- Stop Express train to London and not the train to Liverpool. By the time the occupants in "our" seats informed us...and we rushed to the train doors....the train was swiftly moving out of the station.

So it's clearly the fault of the National Rail System in England that we boarded the wrong train. And here is where my two revelations about England come in:

The country is a bit smaller than America, so a quick trip from York to London and then to Liverpool sounds epic but I suppose is the equivalent to Cleveland to Columbus to Detroit.

Second, these trains move!....they close the doors and travel quickly and efficiently.

We reached London in record time. The conductor and several very helpful Brits assured us that we were not the first nor would we be the last to catch the wrong train and he gave us a computerized ticket for what we wanted to take when we re-connected in London and what station to go to. And assured us that we would be in Liverpool by 4:15 instead of our original 2 pm. It seemed do-able.

An hour later the conductor came up the aisle and sat leaned over and said,

"So are you still going to Liverpool from London?"

"Yes, we are going to do it!" I energetically said.

"ATTA BOY!" and he slapped me on the shoulder and moved on.

I felt like the star football player in the big game who had his bell rung and had to sit out a quarter and then the coach comes over and asks if I'm ready to go back in and I say, "Send me in coach!" and he says, "Atta Boy!" and slaps me on the back as I rush into the game amidst the roar of the crowd.

London, Kings Cross Station. As we walk down the station some fellow from the train who obviously knew of our self-imposed re-routing came up to me and said, "So you are taking the Tube from Kings Cross to Euston Station?" I told him that seemed to be our plan but he suggested just staying on the street and walking five blocks rather than going down to the Tube and going just one stop and re-emeging at Euston Station. 

What's with these Brits? They operate a great Railway System and then help Yanks when they go the wrong way.

So we took his advice. It worked. The Liverpool train was a straighrt shoot. We arrived in a rather grand, though a bit gray big city. Sort of felt like Cleveland and our hotel was supposedly near the City Center ("Centre"....if you want the British spelling) The Info booth was closed. I went out on the street and looked around for a bit...nothing.....and so I asked a local woman who didn't know but was so helpful that she asked some guy who looked like a stevedore walking past. He too was local and neiither had heard of this new hotel and they were both trying to be so helpful that I thought the woman was going to phone The Lord Mayor and solicit his help.

I returned to the train station and found the Virgin Trains booking place (By the way....thanks Richard Branson....your Virgin Train design totally rocks!). The agent was baffled by our hotel name and after several Google searches and a phone call or two she located it. It was so new that locals didn't know of it but Travelocity did and that is how I booked it and how I got a great introductory rate which will be triple whenever people actually know it's in the city. 

But here is the reason, I wanted to come to Liverpool. My cathedral tours brought me to York and that is close to Liverpool and I figured it was time to visit another shrine, so no matter that I went back to London to go to Liver[ool. I had arrived. No cathedrals. Just my own sacred journey: A long and winding road, if I may put it one way.

We had arrived.

Our guide was convinced that Eleanor Rigby from the song was from this graveyard next to the church where John and Paul first met.

One of Paul's boyhood homes (now a part of the National Trust. Ringo's was in a gutted neighborhood.)

The church where John met Paul and things progressed from that day. And our driver's insistance that we tag his business.

We all have our sacred journies in this life. 

And we all have our other sacred journies.

Peace,  Bob