Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Across the River Wye

Some folks have been asking about the food. I admit, that has not been my focus. I'm not a foodie. If it's there and doesn't have raw onions, I'll pretty much eat it and when it comes to dinner, I let my daughters decide.

Besides, the food of the world is everywhere. Last year I ate at a Mexican restaurant after visiting a sacred temple in Thailand and I had Domino's Pizza in India. Of course every British town has its McDonalds and KFC and Starbucks. This town of Hereford has more Fish & Chips shops per square mile than anyplace on earth, so last night we had Mediterranean.

English Breakfasts are pretty standard and hearty. Bacon and eggs! The staff is always "popping into the back for bacon" for us. Their bacon, we'd call Canadian bacon, I suppose. The salt content rivals that of Great Salt Lake. It's all good. We also always are offered Baked Beans. For some reason, I can't look a plate of baked beans in the eye until after 12:45,,,so I can't comment on its flavor. I'm not certain if I am allowed to mention the names of "Bangers and Mash" and "Fish and Finger Pie" in a blog which children might read. But the British are always ordering them or asking us to order them, though I suspect its a joke....like Scouts telling novices they are going "Snipe Hunting" or folks in Montana telling City Slickers about "Jackalopes."
"SIr, would you like a nice order of Banger & Mash with that Finger Pie??"
(Muffled laughter from the kitichen over the Americans who are about to order Bangers and Mash.)


The first beer I was offered in London was a Bud Lite.
Here in Hereford I told the bartender to give me a good British Lager on tap.
"Oh sir, I am sorry...we only serve German beer on tap!"

I am trying to bolster the British Beer Industry but they seem to be controlled by foreign companies. But in short...I enjoy the B & B food and the ease of ordering anything in about any city and town. Anthony Bourdaine I am not.

If Hollywood or the British equivalent were to make a movie about a kindly about-to-retire-beloved English Prep School Professor and his quiet English Prep School.....this is where they would film.

Even in the rain, this town has charm for four towns. We walked around in the rain and enjoyed it for an hour or more. Every turn was another charming picture.





But, the Cathedral brought us here. The original church was dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin in 687 AD but there was a wooden structure before that. Like nearly all of these Cathedrals, they were built in phases and so for a few hundred years they are say, Norman in architecture but then they build on and use, say, Gothic. Those with a trained eye can spot it all. I'd put it this way: if the Cathedral is 100% complete today...maybe 50% was Norman and 50% Gothic and a few other % is modern, adding a modern toilet and administrative offices or display section. Don't hold me to those percentages for Hereford Cathedral, but Cathedrals in general are all about additions over the centuries.

I doubt if any started in say, the 9th Century and they had a set plan for its completion. It's great fun to read of all the additions and disasters which make up a Cathedrals history.


Hereford Cathedral

I am no expert but I can tell when Cathedrals are beyond belief in size and that was York and Liverpool's Cathedrals earlier in the week. Both of those felt like you had entered a dream in which you are but a tiny figure in a gargantuan world. Hereford is a very big cathedral, make no mistake about it...just look at the nave above. But it is somewhat smaller than the other two (and Canterbury). I wouldn't want to be in charge of its Buildings and Grounds Committee though, it takes about $7000 per day to operate. 

Look at the Norman arches in the photos above (I hope I have labeled that correctly) you will note that they do not soar to the fatherst reaches of the ceiling, as do those in Lincoln and York. But, I would vote Hereford "Best Cathedral Flooring." A real treat for the eye.



But it is in the Nave, Choir, Chapel symmetry of all cathedrals with dozens of smaller chapels along the sides dedicated to saints and benefactors. This also had more Dead Knights per square foot compared to other Cathedrals. 



I love this place, the lighting is dramatic and a benefactor has paid for installation of an entire electrical upgrade so the Electrical Union Hall is quite pleased and so is the Cathedral.

This cathedral houses the famous Mapa Mundi ... which is from the 13th Century and is a representation of the most informed men in England at the time it was created and yet it was "based partly on hearsay, rumours and the exaggerations of drunken seafarers." And they have the Chained Library (books in chains...which rather sounds like a Vincent Price horror film). For some reason, one could not photograph the chained library books. I mean, who is going to steal them...they are  chained to the wall! Nobody reads books anymore any way...especially Latin. But the Mapa Mundi and Library are great treasures and beautifully displayed, though like "jackalopes" you'll just have to take my word for it.




We have gone for over 24 hours without boarding the wrong train and ending up on an Express Train to London, so we are feeling quite please with ourselves. But, not quite confident enough to order Baked Beans for breakfast.


Peace, Bob












2 comments:

  1. We vote that you should try beans on toast maybe with egg just because you're there and that's what they eat! Go for it! Great blogging and great trip. We are enjoying your travels.

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  2. You must have a boiled egg with soldiers for breakfast! We liked buttered soldiers, but if you are feeling adventurous, try Marmite soldiers.

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